Fennel Mushrooms

Fennel Mushrooms

Method:

I thought it might be fun to highlight a few vintage cookbooks in the coming months. I pick them up here and there, without much rhyme or reason. There might be a design element I like, it might be the voice of the author, or sometimes a single recipe pops out at me. I typically flip through them in antique shops on road trips, at yard sales and flea markets, but I found this gem at Omnivore Books here in San Francisco - The Seasonal Kitchen: A Return to Fresh Foods. Published in 1973, it is by Perla Meyers, was published by Holt, Rinehart, & Winston, and designed by Al Corchia. I did an updated take on Perla's Fennel Mushroom recipe for today's post, it's a simple, brilliant twist on everyday sauteed mushrooms with dill, chives, fresh fennel, and a kiss of creme fraiche.

There are so many things that resonate with me in this book - subject matter, design, the emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients. More than anything, I love the approachability of Perla's voice. She opens the book by saying, "Of all the reasons I have for writing The Seasonal Kitchen, the most important is to communicate and understanding of freshness and encourage a return to seasonal cooking. This is not a book for organic-food buffs, however, but for anyone willing to explore and rediscover the marvelous potential of fresh food." Remember, this book was published nearly forty years ago. In many ways it reads like it was written yesterday.


You just don't see cookbooks that look like this today. Even better, the ideas behind the recipes are straight-forward, produce-centric, and easy to update. To make these mushrooms, I replaced a substantial amount of sour cream with a dollop of creme fraiche, and never missed the former. And I give a few suggestions related to serving them in the head notes below.

This book was a real find, the sort of discovery that keeps me digging through stacks of books, but I'm certainly not the first to sing Perla's praises. Perla Meyers elsewhere:

Fennel Mushrooms

The mushrooms are great on their own (as pictured), spooned over a thick slab of grilled, garlic-rubbed bread, or over a simple baked potato. They make a fantastic tart or sandwich filling, and would be great as a component in a simple fall panzanella. I used nameko mushrooms here, a favorite from my farmers market, but brown mushrooms will work brilliantly as well. To clean mushrooms use a damp paper towel to remove dirt.

12 ounces mushrooms, brushed clean
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
a few pinches fine grain sea salt
1 small bulb of fennel, trimmed and sliced very thinly
1-2 tablespoons creme fraiche
2 tablespoons fresh dill, chopped
a small bunch of chives, minced
freshly ground black pepper
a small bunch of watercress, sorrel, or arugula
1 teaspoon of olive oil

Cut mushrooms, if needed, into 1/3-inch thick slices. The mushrooms I used, up above, we're mostly left whole.

In your largest skillet, over high heat, melt the butter. Add the mushrooms and a few pinches of salt, and use a spatula to stir until coated. Saute, stirring every minute or so, until the mushrooms release their water and brown a bit - 4-5 minutes. Two minutes before the mushrooms are done cooking, stir in the fennel. When finished, removed from heat, wait ten seconds, and stir in the creme fraiche. Add most of the dill and chives, pepper and more salt if needed.

Courgette & goat's cheese tart

Courgette & goat's cheese tart

Ingredients:

plain flour , for dusting
500g pack shortcrust pastry
1 fat pinch saffron threads
500g courgettes , all but one coarsely grated
knob of butter
4 eggs
284ml pot whipping cream
140g soft goat's cheese
2 handfuls rocket leaves, to serve

Method:

Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Lightly dust a surface with flour, then roll out the pastry into a large, 5mm thick circle. Use to line a deep, 23cm tart tin with removable base. Trim away excess pastry. Prick all over with a fork, then line with baking paper and fill with baking beans. Cook for 10-15 mins until starting to turn golden. Remove paper and beans, then cook for 5 mins more until crisp and cooked through. Leave to cool.
Meanwhile, put the saffron in a cup with 1 tbsp hot water, then leave to infuse. Mix grated courgettes with 1 tsp salt, then place in a colander. Slice the last courgette very thinly lengthways into long ribbons (use a vegetable peeler). Sprinkle with salt, then put on top of the grated courgettes. Put the colander over a bowl to drain for at least 30 mins. Tip into the middle of a clean tea towel over the sink, twist and squeeze the tea towel getting every drop of the green liquid out.
Melt the butter in a large frying pan. Put the courgette slices to one side and add the grated courgettes to the pan. Cook, stirring, for 3 mins. Tip the grated courgettes into a bowl. Lightly beat the eggs, then add all but 2 tbsp to the courgette bowl. Pour in the cream, the saffron and soaking water, then mix well. Season generously with pepper, and salt if it needs it (it may be salty enough).
Reduce oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Brush the remaining beaten egg over the tart case. Bake for 5 mins, until the egg has set and sealed the case. Pour in the mix. Crumble on the goat's cheese. Lay the courgette strips over the top like the spokes of a wheel. Bake for 40 mins, until just set, but still a little wobbly. Cool and serve at room temperature.

GETTING TO THE PARTY

Make the tart up to a day ahead, and store in a cool place (ideally not the fridge as the pastry will lose its crispness). Transport it still in the tart tin, covered with cling film. Bring to room temperature before serving.

396 kcalories, protein 9g, carbohydrate 24g, fat 30 g, saturated fat 15g, fibre 1g, sugar 2g, salt 0.75 g

Mustard-roasted beef fillet

Mustard-roasted beef fillet 

Ingredients:

2 x 1.5kg/3lb 5oz beef fillets , cut from the middle (ask you butcher)
2 tbsp cracked pepper
2 tbsp vegetable oil
small pot Dijon mustard
20 slices prosciutto

Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Lightly dust a surface with flour, then roll out the pastry into a large, 5mm thick circle. Use to line a deep, 23cm tart tin with removable base. Trim away excess pastry. Prick all over with a fork, then line with baking paper and fill with baking beans. Cook for 10-15 mins until starting to turn golden. Remove paper and beans, then cook for 5 mins more until crisp and cooked through. Leave to cool.
Meanwhile, put the saffron in a cup with 1 tbsp hot water, then leave to infuse. Mix grated courgettes with 1 tsp salt, then place in a colander. Slice the last courgette very thinly lengthways into long ribbons (use a vegetable peeler). Sprinkle with salt, then put on top of the grated courgettes. Put the colander over a bowl to drain for at least 30 mins. Tip into the middle of a clean tea towel over the sink, twist and squeeze the tea towel getting every drop of the green liquid out.
Melt the butter in a large frying pan. Put the courgette slices to one side and add the grated courgettes to the pan. Cook, stirring, for 3 mins. Tip the grated courgettes into a bowl. Lightly beat the eggs, then add all but 2 tbsp to the courgette bowl. Pour in the cream, the saffron and soaking water, then mix well. Season generously with pepper, and salt if it needs it (it may be salty enough).
Reduce oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Brush the remaining beaten egg over the tart case. Bake for 5 mins, until the egg has set and sealed the case. Pour in the mix. Crumble on the goat's cheese. Lay the courgette strips over the top like the spokes of a wheel. Bake for 40 mins, until just set, but still a little wobbly. Cool and serve at room temperature.

GETTING TO THE PARTY

Make the tart up to a day ahead, and store in a cool place (ideally not the fridge as the pastry will lose its crispness). Transport it still in the tart tin, covered with cling film. Bring to room temperature before serving.

396 kcalories, protein 9g, carbohydrate 24g, fat 30 g, saturated fat 15g, fibre 1g, sugar 2g, salt 0.75 g

Easy cheese & onion slice

Easy cheese & onion slice

Ingredients:

600g baking potatoes , peeled and chopped into chunks
300g mature cheddar , 200g grated, 100g cubed
pinch cayenne pepper
large bunch spring onions , finely sliced
1 egg , beaten
500g pack all-butter puff pastry
jar caramelised red onions (we used English Provender Company), to serve

Methods:

Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Boil potatoes for 15 mins until tender, then drain well and smash a little. Cool slightly.
Mix the cheese, cayenne and onions with the smashed potatoes and stir to make a mouldable filling. Roll out the pastry to a rectangle about 25 x 35cm. Carefully lift onto a baking sheet and brush all over with beaten egg.
Press the cheese mix along one of the long sides of the pastry, leaving 2cm pastry free on one side for sealing, and half of the pastry empty on the other side for folding over later. Fold the pastry over the filling and press the edges together, before trimming with a knife and sealing well by pressing the edges with a fork.
Brush with egg and bake for 30 mins. Cool, then slice and serve with caramelised red onions. Can be made 1 day ahead

467 kcalories, protein 16g, carbohydrate 35g, fat 31 g, saturated fat 19g, fibre 2g, sugar 1g, salt 1.37 g

Bonfire Night baked potatoes

Bonfire Night baked potatoes 

Ingredient:

4 medium baking potatoes
2 tbsp olive oil
25g butter
1 large onion , finely sliced
6 slices smoked streaky bacon , chopped
2 tbsp double cream
200g mixed good melting cheese, such as Reblochon, Raclette or Gruyère

Method:

Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, then rub with half the oil, some sea salt and black pepper. Arrange on a baking tray and bake in the oven for about 1 hr 15 mins, until their skins are crisp and they are completely tender when prodded.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil and half the butter in a frying pan. Add the onion and gently cook for 15-20 mins until softened and golden. Remove from the pan and set aside, add the chopped bacon and fry until just crisp. Remove using a slotted spoon and place on kitchen paper.
Halve each potato lengthways (watch out, they will be hot), then scoop out most of the potato into a bowl, leaving a potato skin shell with a thin layer of potato. In the bowl, crush the potato with the remaining butter and the double cream. Season with salt and pepper. Fold through the onion, bacon, three-quarters of the cheeses and half the parsley. Spoon back into the potato shells and top with the remaining cheese. Transfer to the baking tray and return to the oven for 10-15 mins, until melting and golden. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and serve with a sharply dressed crisp salad, if you like.

PER SERVING:

550 kcalories, protein 21g, carbohydrate 39g, fat 36 g, saturated fat 18g, fibre 3g, sugar 4g, salt 2.58 g